Pete Beck helped us drink this bottle. I had not seen him since 1993. On Sunday, his Facebook status said he was in Harrogate, so I fired off a message inviting him over. I then spent the next 44 hours regretting it. What would we talk about? Would there be anything in common? How much, in fact, did I enjoy his company half a lifetime ago? Needless to say, we had a lovely time and the conversation never flagged. It was a pleasure to see him and he said nice things about the wine. We parted, promising not to leave it another 22 years.